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Sportster Clutch, Spoke Wheels, And More

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Sportster Clutch, Spoke Wheels, And More - Questions And Answers
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Sportster Clutch, Spoke Wheels, And More - Questions And Answers


By Frank Kaisler

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Keep On Shifting
Very good article on the Sportster clutch in the January '06 issue. My wife bought her first bike, a '06 Sportster 1200 Custom, the same time you started the series on the bike and we have been following your work. Her bike is Cobalt. The question we have is how many miles were on the clutch when you needed to change it? What is the average someone can expect from a clutch in the Sportster and how about the Twin Cam?
Thank you.
Jacki and Will Hudson
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania


Jacki and Will, we replaced the clutch in our '04 Sportster because it was toast when we got it from the past editors. The clutch had about 2,800 miles when we changed it, but that was due to other circumstances. Depending on how you ride, a stock clutch will last thousands of miles, or years, and the same is true of Twin Cams.

Make It Straight
Hey guys. I have been a longtime reader, and now I have a question about spoke wheels and tires. I have a '99 Softail Standard with spoke wheels, the wide stock, 1-1/2-inch rear belt, and a stock width 130 Dunlop tire. I just came across a used Softail rim with chrome spokes with a 140 Dunlop mounted on it. So I switched the wheels after being assured it would fit a Softail-in fact, it was supposed to have been on one. It is sweet and looks like it has no more than 2000 miles maybe, and I would like to run it. My problem is that it rubs the belt on my ride. It was already on a ride and everything bolted right up perfect. So I made a .080-inch spacer to fit behind my pulley for some clearance and then cocked the rear axle about 1/8-inch or more as well. Now the tire does not rub going forward as the inertia on the belt moves it to the outside of the pulley. However, when backing up, the belt moves back inward and then it rubs.

Now I do not push backwards much, maybe parking or getting it out of the garage, but I still do not like it. So what is your opinion about running a tire cocked a little? I also seem to remember an old-timer once telling me that you could lace a wheel off-center from the hub for clearance? Is this true? If so, how much (1/8-, 1/4-, 3/8-inch)? I am dreaming here of a 150 tire. Ride and handling are my major concerns and I would just like to know if there is a cheap way to mount a wider tire than $500 for a kit and another $200 for a narrow pulley, plus ripping apart a good inner primary.
Thanks for your time.
Charlie
Garden City

Charlie, we never advocate running a cocked wheel ever. You didn't say what pulley you shimmed; the .080-we guess it's the wheel pulley. To gain additional clearance between the belt and tire, space the pulley out some more, like say 1/8-inch (0.125-inch or so). Relacing the wheel offset is going to cost a few bucks also. Plus, when you offset lace the wheel, you have to check the tire to fender distances. Check out Drag's and CCI's catalogs for pulley shims.

Looking Ahead
Hi, I hope this finds the correct people. I am really enjoying BikeWorks. I would like to obtain a workshop stand for my Heritage Softail. The type that fits under the engine and frame seem to be a good idea. Have you done any articles on these, or could you point me in the right direction (i.e. supplier, etc.)? Thanks.
Trevor Cains
United Kingdom

Trevor, we are in the process of gathering a bunch of lifts for the article you suggested. We'll have the information in a couple of issues. In the meantime, visit a couple of shops to see what types of lifts they use.

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