After the canyon, we rejoined US-97 as we motored north to Winthrop. The deep forest of this highway near Blewett Pass (4,102 feet) refreshed us when the day started to heat up. Looking at a map, you see the 97 split into US-97 and US-97 Alt; take the Alt (alternate highway). Remember the rule about avoiding the ordinary.
We stopped in Chelan for lunch. We'd gone 170 miles, and the heat seemed to be rising up out of the ground. Some of us had pressurized water bottles (www.MistyMate.com). If your passenger sprays your neck, arms and hands while the bike slices through the spicy-hot, dry air of Central Washington, it can cool the air by 30 degrees. This will allow you to enjoy the scenery of Lake Entiat, Lake Chelan and the WA-153 as it winds up the Methow Valley toward Winthrop.
Finally: Winthrop. Misty Mate or not, the heat wilted all six of us. The temperature lay in triple digits, and we realized that 245 miles in one day turned our new riders from enthusiastic to numb. Despite the perfect scenery and roads, despite sticking to our rules, we had overdone it. Would Eric's and Tad's wives ever agree to another trip? We pondered this as we checked into our motel.
I recommend the Hotel Rio Vista (1-800-398-0911) as a clean, comfortable stop that allows you to explore the town on foot and walk to restaurants. The best food in town can be found at the Duck Brand Restaurant.
Washington State has a holy ride that makes a circuit from the west. Riders take WA-20 through the North Cascades National Park, stop in Winthrop, then drop down US-97 to US-2 for the return journey. As a result, tiny, Western-themed Winthrop often has dozens of bikes lined up along the false-fronted buildings. Grab an ice cream cone and settle down to watch bikes.
Never heard of North Cascades National Park? Bikers should know about this unbelievable ride. This is a must-ride highway. It's far grander than the Klickitat wonders, more stunning than the Yakima Canyon and the most remote of nearly any ride in the whole Pacific Northwest. The mountains are so vast and rugged that a path through did not exist until 1972.
Lucky for all of us, the next day, the heat abated for our ride home. We retraced our path except for the final 100 miles. That part we took through the striking territory belonging to Mount St. Helens. The terrible beauty left by the violence of the 1980 eruption gave us a still feeling as we gazed at the mountain fitfully resting amongst the destruction it wrought.
If you decide to travel National Forest Road 25 south from Randle to see the mountain, go slow. Go slow to enjoy the forest, go slow to avoid the appallingly bad pavement quality and go slow to avoid the packs of adrenaline-addled sportbike riders who might attempt to pass you on a blind curve.
We rolled into our hometown with happy passengers who realized there are some journeys that must be taken on a bike to be a true escape. As we pulled up in the driveway, the realities of home and work seemed smaller after riding the spectacular Washington State highways.
Bruce Hansen is the author of Motorcycle Journeys Through the Pacific Northwest, Whitehorse Press.